With a composition of pastels and prodigious detail, Californian sisters, Kate and Laura Mulleavy had a lavish comeback to New York Fashion Week this September 2018.
Their magical creations collected an inordinate amount of tulle, bows, leather and hair accessories. So delicate, yet undeniable statement pieces, wrapped the models bodies into catwalk perfection. I'd be certain when I say that the beautiful sunny californian days, with blossoming trees and flowers were the sisters main inspiration. Styling was out of this world. The creations on each models hair were meticulously made by numerous hands and lots of time. Everything, romantically displayed went together- from the slight rain in a beautiful garden, to the mysterious music and unique models. With a trendy and classic color palette, coming together with bold reds, fairytale-like pastels, as well as shimmery sparkle, Rodarte fabricated a runway with artistic spirit on a perfectly gloomy day.
For a little backup, I found three other reliable sources focusing on Rodartes NYFW show. All three have an optimistic tone and point of view agreeing with only one negative: weather.
A New York Times article, “The Rodarte Sisters Dramatic Return to New York” by Laura Neilson, goes on about how the studio and office space mood was buoyant in general. Trying hard not to come off as rude, Nielson also mentions with attitude that the weather was terrible, she writes that it was very hot and humid, and it felt like a sauna. Of course she goes of saying this because Laura Mulleavy, one half of the fashion label, Rodarte, agreed. With professional and prepared language, the articles tone is daring and as if they expected the worst from these designers, but got great results. It starts off with a negative tone but twists into a positive article. Of course, Laura Nielson, with well research says the setting was as tricky as it was magnificent. With no area to serve as backstage, the models had to prepare at the Orthodox cathedral across the street before crossing over to take their walks. The designers are immensely credited for their hard work. “the Mulleavys have stood apart from the fashion world with their singular, richly imaginative vision, and their reluctance to follow typical industry convention.” The author communicates that is was an exuberant collection of colorful gowns and separates embellished with tiers of ruffles, embroidery and floral detailing. Articles attention was set on the designers and their story up until showtime.
On a review published by W Magazine, written by Lauren McCarthy: “See Rodarte’s Triumphant Fairy-Tale Return to New York Fashion Week” the author goes into fashion and how its all about the unexpected. The idea works perfectly around Rodartes fashion show situation. After the weather's shortcoming, who knows better than the California natives, who have cultivated a cult following through the years thanks to their surprising, dreamlike creations. McCarthy says that with the help of a few dozen clear umbrellas, the show went on as planned. The article constantly goes over Rodartes return to New York after decamping to Paris for a few seasons. Its notable with the Spring 2019 collection. As the other articles, the negative feature of the show was: “a torrential downpour that swept the city.” The review feels a bit rushed because its so short, the author gets to the point clearer and quicker. Even though it was a short review, the author didn’t forget to write about the collection. Lauren McCarthy says it was a homecoming, with all the hallmarks of a signature Rodarte show: frothy layers of tulle, floral appliqués, vibrant lace, some lamé for good measure, and Oscar winner Brie Larson in the front row. As Rodarte’s runway show to take place in a vast, green-filled cemetery in the East Village some wet fashion editors were damned, but the rain turned out to only add to the fairytale of it all.
“Behind the Scenes of Rodartes Spectacular Return to NYFW” is the third and final review I read, written by Steff Yotka published in Vogue Magazine. With an optimistic point of view, the author says that nothing could stop the designers and the end result was nothing short of resplendent. Like the review written for W Magazine, this one was short and to the point. The difference was that this one felt more professional and well informed. I received more information on the inspiration behind the collection, it's said that its very diverse, from Kate Bush to Pablo Picasso, the sisters said their collection was meant to be a meditation on creativity itself. About the collection, Yotka says it was an’80s-twinged celebration complete with enormous pouf-sleeved gowns, rose-studded updos, and Bohemian floral maxi dresses for those of us without a need for ultra-haute occasionwear. There were also short, sassy leather outfits—maybe a little inspired by Shelley Long’s outfits in Troop Beverly Hills? There were and racks of tulle and leather and Art Deco jewelry, the duo was astutely, almost intuitively tying on bows, pinning up sleeves, and adding hair accessories to their magical creations. The general focus was on the undefeated sisters who created a magical collection presentation no matter what.
The creative pair of sisters: Kate and Laura Mulleavy proved that you don't really need to have background knowledge on designers and their journey to understand their collections, when they are portrayed as well as Rodartes was. They created a magical and delicate show with authenticity and collaboration. Their optimism and strength as a brand differentiates them from other designers. Not many could bare a warm gloomy day. After reading what the critics wrote, I couldn't agree more with the rich and imaginative visión that these designers brought to life. One thing I did mention that I noticed critics didn't, was the models. Without their uniqueness the show wouldn't have been the same. After this analisis, whenever i'm at a show in the future, i'll know now that it's the smallest details and the last few minutes before the show, that compose the full masterpiece.
Shop the looks: https://www.modaoperandi.com/rodarte-ss19?utm_source=VogueRunway&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_campaign=ss19&utm_content=rodarte